Summertime blue-green dotted swimsuit

I have made 2 swimsuits so far, nothing to brag about, all black, very conservative. Here are some pictures.

The only interesting thing is that I have created 2 swimsuit bottoms for myself that I could digitalize and publish for others. They are high waisted but in 1 size only (size 38/40).

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Now I have decided to make a one-piece swimsuit from Burda 06-2023-129, size 42. I have carefully observed pictures on the Russian Burda site and realized that this pattern is a good one. There were no complaints, only thumbs up. 

So this is what I made:

This is the original from Burda magazine: 06-2023-129

I don't know why I chose size 42 (instead of my usual size 40). It fits nicely, size 40 would be tighter, but this one is just fine. The neckline = cleavage is a bit loose when you are in the water swimming but it doesn't open or reveal anything, it's just loose. It's sewn with a twin needle, no elastic inserted in the neckline.

It is made of ?? (probably) lycra, elsthane, polyester. It's a proper swimsuit fabric I just don't know the exact material because I've had it for a year or two. I used elastic in the leg openings, arm and back openings but not in the neckline. Unfortunatelly, I don't have swimsuit elastic (?!), it's difficult to get it in Slovenia, so I used ordinary elastic. We'll see how long it will last.

I wanted foam cups in the front part, it's a must. But I couldn't get them so I made them myself out of a larger foam sheet. I used a Burda pattern from Burda 02-2011-113 (a corset). Here are some pictures.

I tried the sellotaped paper pattern on my bust. It was OK. I recommend doing all this if you want a feedback on the fit. 

The original:

I used this YouTube video on making foam cups:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS0RmtOsyHA&t=367s

Then I inserted them into the front part. At first I thought that I will have to sew them to a white mesh and then sandwich that between the front fabric and the lining (which is the same as the original fabric). BUT I realized I can sew them directly to the lining. Look at the pictures. I just had to be careful to place them to the part that is going to be inside (not outside).

I used a zig zag stitch. Foam cups are soft and it's OK done like that. I don't have to cut anything out. Everything is stretchy. How did I decide where to put foam cups? I just guessed. I placed them relatively well but not ideally. Because the front part twists and it's pulled back by back straps it's difficult to place them. It would be easier to decide after everything is finished but I think that can't be done. I mean, it's a step that has to be done now, not at the end.

The front part is lined with mesh fabric. The back is not lined at all. The front keyhole (opening): the right side of the fabric is sewn together, then turned inside out, topstitched with a twin needle and then continued as one fabric.

foam cups sewn on the inside fabric

the neckline opening sewn with twin needle (no elastic inserted)

The straps: are sewn right sides together, then turned inside out, then black elastic (2 cm) is inserted. I saw that from my daughter's store bought swimsuit (from Aldi = Hofer in Slovenia, which was only 3.45 EUR ?!? WHAT? Who can sew swimsuits that cheap? They were made in China. You can't make swimsuit this cheap in Europe. What do I complain about, I bought 2 of them for my 6-year old daughter.)

I have also sewed with straight stitch right along the centre of the strap, from top to bottom, to keep the elastic from wiggling. The straight stitch, of course, snapped when used every day at the seaside, so I have to correct that.

 

Oh, and now my tips and advice:

- I always pin everything together and then I handsew layers of fabric together (with quick, wide stitches) to stay in place when I do the real sewing, for me it works wonders. Nothing moves. 

- 2 YouTube videos I recommend: 

1. making foam cups: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS0RmtOsyHA&t=367s

2. sewing (leg, arm) openings in a swimsuit with elastic:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sveGDtF_20U&t=836s

Sewing elastic in leg openings:

Conclusion:

It's a great pattern, there weren't a lot of alterations. Foam cups are a must for me. One-piece swimsuit is quite good to make and to wear. Well, it's not practical when you go to the loo. The more swimwear you make, the more you perfect your knowledge and skills.